The history of beer and brewing is fascinating. It reads like a dramatic novel filled with plots of murder, accusations of witchcraft, untimely endings, a battle between men and women, and villainous characters. Thankfully, the industry has changed today, and the environment is more inclusive and collaborative between the sexes than combative.
Several women from breweries in Central and Northern Ohio recently gathered together to brew the “Saison of the Witch” to release on International Women’s Collaboration Brew Day, March 8th.
Jamie Sipps from HiHO Brewing in Cuyahoga Falls, suggested the name for the beer. And given the history of beer, the group unanimously agreed. Most original brewers were women, because women brewed beer as a part of their household responsibilities and duties.
Beer was a household staple. Not only was it safer to drink than water, but it was also a source of nutrients. It was important for those spending long days working on farms and in the fields. It was also common for women to make extra beer for sale or trade.
The pointed hats that are often associated with witches today, were easily be spotted in a crowd while selling beer at the local market. And the hats were sometimes hung on door frames of their houses to signal they had beer available. At least until the 1500’s. As beer became a bigger business, competition increased, and the Reformation movement began. Women brewers were suddenly being accused of being witches by a few opportunistic individuals (men). Cutting the competition down by more than half and leaving those hats, forever associated with witchcraft.
The Saison style is often referred to as a farmhouse ale and sometimes a Belgian Pale Ale. Traditionally, they are flavorful, light, and effervescent with fruity and citrusy aromas and light peppery notes from the yeast. They were brewed after the harvest season, aged, and then released the following year. They would often include local, seasonal ingredients.
The Saison of the Witch features Edese’m hops, an Ohio hop grown by Barn Talk Hops in Wadsworth. “We really liked the idea of using a local hop, and this particular hop was perfect not only for the style but because it was grown locally,” said Carmone Macfarlane of the Phoenix Brewing Company. “The Saison also includes a small amount of the Pink Boots hop blend, in support of the Pink Boot Society.” The Pink Boots Society is a scholarship organization that provides educational opportunities for women in craft beer. Local chapters include Columbus and Cincinnati, and they support women in a traditionally male-dominated field. “ We will be incorporating more of the Pink Boots Hop blend into another beer later this year. at the Phoenix.”
Not everyone could participate in person on February 1, but brewing a beer starts well before the kettle begins to boil. The first steps include designing a recipe for a chosen style. Jennifer Hermann of Bell Tower Brewing in Kent, developed the recipe even though she was unable to attend the brew day.
In addition, the product must be registered with the state, production schedules must be maintained, ingredients need ordered and sourced. Marketing materials begin to be designed, and then the actual brewing process can begin.
The February 1 brew day began with women gathering in the Phoenix taproom to enjoy breakfast and learn more about each other and the roles they serve in their breweries. The brewers were also joined by Representative Marilyn John from the Ohio House of Representatives, Mary McDonald, the Executive Director of the Ohio Craft Brewers Association, and Jodie Snavely from Destination Mansfield. Many of the women that participated have extensive brewing and cellaring experience and some are just starting out. The women also fill vital roles in the Craft Beer Industry in marketing, sales and distribution, creative, advocacy, and ownership.
After the brew day, the beer must be monitored during fermentation. It must pass multiple QC checks, and then begin preparation for packaging for eventual distribution in kegs and cans. Most of this batch will be packaged in kegs but there will be some limited cans available. The 16 oz can label features a mandala, a geometric configuration of symbols, composed of hops and grains, and 4 symbols representing the seasons, Winter, Spring, Summer, and Fall. In the center of the mandala, there is a tiny, pointed hat. The colors are earthy and subdued with a pop of modern pink and green.
The Saison will be distributed on draft in several of the participating brewery taprooms including Bell Tower Brewing in Kent, HiHO Brewing in Cuyahoga Falls, Upside Brewing in Sylvania, Weaselboy Brewing from Zanesville, and Franklinton’s Brewdog. Boss Chick-n-Beer will also be tapping the Saison at each of their 3 locations. Participants attending Winter Warmer, hosted by the Ohio Craft Brewer’s Association, at Windows on the River in Cleveland will have the opportunity to sample the beer first, at the now sold-out, March 5 event.
Participants included:
Mary MacDonald, Executive Director of the OCBA
Representative, Marilyn John, Ohio House of Representatives
Lori Wince, Weasel Boy Brewing Company-Zanesville, Ohio
Jennifer Herman, Belltower Brewing Co. -Kent, Ohio
Ali Hovan, HiHO Brewing Co.- Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Jamie Sipps, HiHO Brewing Co.- Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Ashlee Glass, HiHO Brewing Co.- Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio
Melissa Dallas, Upside Brewing-Sylvania, Ohio
Emma Jones, Nocterra Brewing Co.- Powell, Ohio
Andrea Wertz, Nocterra Brewing Co.- Powell, Ohio
Jamie Cadle, Walking Distance Brewery- Marysville, Ohio
Veronica Bagley, Great Lakes Brewing Company,- Cleveland, Ohio
Erin Campbell, Outerbelt Brewing-Carroll, Ohio
Gwyn Armstrong-Patrick Gangwer Memorial Brewing Scholarship recipient
Carmone Macfarlane, The Phoenix Brewing Company-Mansfield, Ohio
Jodie Snavely, Destination Mansfield